Split is the seat of the beautiful Croatian coast gazing across the Adriatic sea. As we finally made it off the delayed trip from Zagreb to Split (travel trip: we are usually all for taking the cheapest mode of transport, but you are much better off taking a Flixbus to Split), we were met with a puff humid, hot air and a massive wave of tourists. To break from this wave of people, we headed off to the Riva, a little garden with cold water overlooking the beach. Riva is right opposite Diocletian's palace. Many of the popular destinations in Split are located within the marble-lined walls of the palace. The palace was Diocletian’s retirement home, where he lived between the ages of 60 and 70. Christian rulers reclaimed the palace and subsequently lapsed to the control of several warring rulers. In preparation for our trip, I managed to read the ‘Ruins of the Palace of the Emperor of Diocletian at Spalatro in Dalmatia’, which skyrocketed the popularity of the palace in the eyes of Europe. 

I had built the experience of this palace up in my imagination, but this centuries-old palace inundated by human beings simply did not have the same appeal. Within the Diocletian’s palace, we visited - 

  1. Narodni Trg
  2. Vocni Trg
  3. Temple of Jupiter 
  4. St Dominicus Cathedral

 

After visiting all of these locations, we desperately craved some peace and made our way up Marjan hill, located to the right of the palace. Marjan hill, at the height of summer, was not easy to climb. If you do the hike, you are treated to some beautiful views and some quiet after the bustle of the city. Also, the Marjan hills are home to twelve small churches built during different periods. These churches are small, unassuming places of worship steeped in the tradition of worship. Many churches are associated with protection during travel or sea voyages, marking Split’s identity as a port city. This is a good place to get an exhaustive list of all Marjan hill churches. 

 

Overall, Split is one of those locations that is more fantasy than fact. I wish we had had the time to explore Split before tourism became its defining feature.