Kaunas is one of the largest cities in Lithuania and can easily be accessed from Poland through a Flixbus service. However, by the time we reached Kaunas, the combined effort of trekking through the wintry landscape of Poland was taking its toll. We spent our first day in Kaunas lounging around our beautiful Airbnb. We ate lunch at a place called Radherane. If you are hoping for a traditional Indian meal, this is not the right place, despite the glowing reviews. 

 

The next day, we got a bus to the central part of Kaunas. We were able to walk by the river Neumanas! We then walked by several parks and gardens until we finally reached the central basilica in Kaunas church called the Church of St. Michael the Archangel. This was the first of many times we had occasion to visit an originally Orthodox cathedral constructed in a typically neo-byzantine style architecture. The church was later consecrated as a Catholic Church. The church belonged to different faiths at different points and continues as a testament to points of connection and disconnect within the various religions inhabiting Kaunas.

Laisves Way

Church of St. Michael the Archangel

The church is located close to the Laisves Way, the largest shopping street in Europe. We went to Laisves the day before the new Year, so the street seemed deserted, but I can see it being a vibrant place at other times. We had researched the existence of a unique museum documenting folk beliefs in Lithuania about the idea of ‘devils’. A single person collected and curated folk art and stories about devils, even during the Russian occupation, even when it was illegal. It was inspiring to see that an individual had managed to save so many folk tales during the Russian occupation. The Devil’s Museum preserves an often overlooked part of Lithuanian culture. We’d recommend making this a part of your itinerary. Also, as a side note, Moksha is a great place to have a cosy vegan meal. We had the best lunch of the entire trip there! 

Devil's Museum

Aside from these locations, Kaunas is home to many churches, such as the Christ Resurrection Basilica and museums. It's also home to the lovely Kaunas castle. The castle is tiny and can be regarded as a large mansion instead of a castle. But the entire set-up was so charming, and the road leading up to the castle looked enchanted! We left Kaunas wishing we’d spent more time here! 

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